Sunday, September 12, 2010

The pH of Leather - Or, How to Ruin Leather by Following Bad Advice

In the September, 2010 issue of the popular magazine Martha Stewart Living there is an article that talks about how to clean various household items.   One of the categories discussed is leather.  In the article it is recommended to use household cleaners on leather.  This is a serious mistake that can easily discolor or worse permanently damage fine leather furniture.

A minor lesson in basic chemistry will make this problem clear.  It has to do with a not well known leather attribute – the pH of leather.

What is pH anyway? 

pH is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity (basicity) of a substance.  It is measured on a scale that runs from 1 to 14 where the center point --- 7 --- is neutral as determined by pure water.  Any measure below 7 is acidic and any measure above 7 is alkaline.  This scale is logarithmic.  This means that a substance with a pH of 6 is 10 times more acidic than water (pH of 7) and continuing down the scale, a pH of 5 is 100 times more acidic than water.  The same differential applies going up the scale as well.

When you bring two substances into contact with each other where their pH differ, a chemical reaction occurs as the pH of both substances come into balance by neutralizing each other creating a salt like substance in the process.  The severity of the chemical reaction is determined by the degree of differential.  Mix baking soda (a Base) with vinegar (an acid) and a somewhat explosive chemical reaction will occur.  There are several videos on YouTube that clearly demonstrate this reaction.

How does this apply to leather?

Leather is acidic.  Its pH is measured at between 4.5 and 5.0.  Household cleaners are alkaline.  Windex, 409, Mr. Clean are all common household cleaners with a pH of exceeding 9.0 and topping out at 11.45 (Windex).  Given the logarithmic nature of the scale, that represents a huge differential compared to leather.

Like in the vinegar and baking soda demonstrations, a reaction within the fiber structure of leather occurs when you clean leather furniture with a household cleaner. Leather is a very absorbent material.  It may not be as immediate or as explosive but the reaction nonetheless will slowly but permanently damage the leather’s fiber structure, weakening it in the process.  As the household cleaner is absorbed into the leather fibers the reaction breaks down those fibers.  With enough exposure, the fiber bundles lose their integrity, turning to mush.  Bottom-line: household cleaners accelerate the demise of fine leather furniture.

The other negative is the effect these harsh cleaners can have on the color coating of “finished” leather.  It acts like a stripping agent, pulling the protective clear coating and subsequently color coating as well.

As a leather repair and restoration specialist with Advanced Leather Solutions, Inc., I receive the frantic phone calls and e-mails from people who have discovered on their own the damage household cleaners can do to the color coating or worse the actual integrity of their leather.  In most cases it’s correctable, but sometimes the damage is so severe that the cost of correction exceeds the value of the furniture.  You can learn more about the attributes of leather from our web-site www.ADVLeather.com.

In the Martha Stewart Living article, the author also referred to saddle soap as a possible material to use on upholstery grade leather.  Saddle soap is a generic term that is applied to a number of different products.  However, the same pH issue applies.  In most cases saddle soap has a pH exceeding 10, thus highly alkaline.

Despite the best intentions sometimes advice can be far more dangerous than good.  The lesson here is to be sure that any time you apply a chemistry to leather, identify  its pH so that you are actually helping solve a problem correctly, not executing a “seek and destroy” mission.

The Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) of a product usually defines its pH. These can generally be found on-line.

Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan                

Friday, September 10, 2010

Leather Repair and Restoration Training

I'm seeing a significant increase in interest in our leather repair and restoration training program.  For those interested, here is some information about our training program. 

Course Title - THE BASICS OF LEATHER REPAIR

Objective Statement ---
This course is intended for people who repair and restore leather.  At the conclusion of the course, the attendee will have a basic grasp of how to access a problem, develop a strategy for repair and execute the appropriate steps to create the most effective solution possible.

Course Includes ---
1. A fully outfitted professional level mobile kit with electrical wiring built in to support the included compressor, top-of-the-line airbrushing equipment, professional quality heat gun, etc. Additionally the kit contains all the other necessary tools and chemistry for repairing damaged leather.  This is the same kit our service technicians use.  It has evolved over the last 23 years of field repairs by our technicians to be as reliable, efficient and complete a repair kit as possible.

2.  3 1/2 days of hands-on training with each attendee working from his/her personal kit.  The lead trainer has been repairing leather furniture for over 21 years, having successfully repaired thousands of damaged leather furniture pieces. The course takes that deep practical experience and brings it to each attendee.

3. One hundred eighty page Leather Technician's Field Guide that covers the course material. It is written in an organized, easy-to-read fashion. The attendee can focus on the hands-on activities without the need to take notes as the specific techniques are all well documented in the training guide.

4. Our commitment to follow-on telephone support.  Our technical support team is ready to answer any questions and assist in any way possible in solving the problems faced by the attendee when back on the job.

5. Access to our library of DVD based training modules with a 3 year subscription.  Here is a sample training related video sequence we have up on Picasa: 

6. Customer relations issues are discussed so the repair technician is guided with effective answers to the difficult questions the consumer may be asking.

7. Certification as a trained professional leather technician.

8. An attendee can bring to the class specific leather problems they may have encountered and see how our technicians solve them.

The fee for a single person (including the technician's kit) is $3,600.  A second person from the same entity is an additional $1,200.   We require $1,000 deposit and the balance due upon arrival for the trainingsession.

This program is in essence a "Business in a Box" concept.  It doesn't have any of the financial burdens and territorial limitations of a franchise that may cost many thousands of dollars more.  For more information, contact us via e-mail: Kevin@ADVLeather.com, or via phone in the US at 510-786-6059.

Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Advanced Leather Solutions SG Series Marketing Info

The following is marketing information for those who wish to become resellers of the proven SG Series of leather performance products made by Advanced Leather Solutions, Inc.  Here at ADVLeather.com we chemically engineer the best performance  for leather care products.  Those who use the products praise the results.  Those who distribute the products to their customers report back to us that their customers are also praising the merits of SG - 5, our leather cleaner and SG - 25 our leather conditioner.  As a reader of my blog, you too can take advantage these superb products, either under your own private label or take advantage of the brand awareness Advanced Leather Solutions has already created.  Here are the details...

Advanced Leather Solutions --- The SG Series of Leather Performance products

Intensive cleaning and moisturizing for automobile, leather garments and furniture

Chemically engineered specifically for leather

Safe and easy cleaning action --- SG - 5 cleans automotive and upholstery grade leather.  The cleaning action is safe for leather, surrounding and lifting dirt away from the leather, even if deeply embedded in the grain pattern.  Because it is safe for leather, frequent repeated application will not damage the leather.  The cleaning action brightens the leather without the use of harsh bleaching agents. 

Intensive moisture replenishment ---   SG - 25 is an intensive moisturizer for automobile and upholstery.  These replenishing oils and other softening agents are absorbed deep into the leather, where they restore the leather’s vitality. 

Improves suppleness --- As leather dries, it loses its soft, supple feel.  The intensive moisturizing agents in SG – 25 bring back lost suppleness, prolonging the life of the leather even if exposed to harsh heat and intense sun.  

Restructures top layer --- SG – 25 actually restructures the protective top layer (top-coat) to your leather.  Through use and sun exposure, this top layer loses its effectiveness.  It can even feel rough or chaffed to the touch.  The SG Series restructures this protective layer improving the long term wear characteristics.  Repeated use of the SG products builds this protective layer adding durability to your leather.  It leaves even old, dried leather feeling silky smooth.

pH balance --  The SG Series  is pH balanced.  Leather is acidic at 4.5 to 5.0.  Most leather cleaners are alkaline. This means they are actually harming the leather. When Leather’s pH is out of balance, it accelerates the breakdown its internal fibrous structure. The SG Series of Leather Performance products brings the leather back to its appropriate pH, reducing the long term damage to the leather caused by inappropriate pH leather care products.

Anti-bacteria and virus Agent Added – Pets and kids are germ factories.  SG – 25 not only conditions and protects your leather, it also adds anti-bacteria and virus protection.  With the system, when we say clean, we mean hospital clean.

Easy wipe on and rub --- Easy to apply with a simple, cleaning and conditioning wipe and rub technique.  No more cleaners that dull leather.  No more conditioners that make the leather feel sticky or oily.

 Long term effectiveness --- The SG Series of Leather Performance ingredients have staying power, reducing the frequency of application required.  Even after a single application your leather will feel better, last longer and give you the overall performance expected from leather in high-end automobiles.

The warmer the better --- The warmer the environment, the better SG – 25 performs.  When leather is warm, the moisturizing agents quickly revitalize the leather.  Even old, dried, tired looking leather can be brought back to life.


Suggested Marketing Channels

SG – Series of Leather Performance Products is an after-market product targeted to automobile and furniture owners who want to protect their investment in leather.  It will also work on a wide variety of other leather goods like jackets, motorcycle leather seats, saddlebags, briefcases, shoes, etc.

Example channels should include the following:

  1. Auto Dealerships (new and used)
  2. Aftermarket auto supply stores (Pep boys, etc.)
  3. Auto paint shops (Earl Schibb, etc.)
  4. Auto detailer
  5. Car washers
  6. Auto clubs
  7. Large chain stores
  8. Furniture retailers
  9. Direct sales via advertising in auto trader, etc.
  10. Direct sales via internet
  11. Flea market booths

Additional considerations:

It can be used for horse tack leather as well.

Targeted demographic markets include middle to high income households and auto owners who care about their leather.

Suggested Sales and General Awareness Tactics

  1. Create an article for publication in a trade journal.  Focus on uniqueness.  Examples available for ADVleather.com
  2. Make up 1 or 2 oz samples and distribute through above channels – try it, you’ll like it approach.
  3. Create point-of-sale displays again emphasizing uniqueness of product offering.
  4. Direct sales to each of the above listed sales channels.


Bottle and Label Considerations

We recommend HDPE cylinder rounds, natural. These are semi-clear plastic bottles so you can see the contents.  Use a poly-tops white closure with a flip top for ease of use.  Make sure the ink on the label is not susceptible to having the ink run when it gets wet.

Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan

Monday, September 6, 2010

How to resolve a Dent in Leather

It's not unusual that we will encounter a dent or compression mark in leather from moving damage.

Here is a picture that shows the issue.  Some people think steam will help resolve the dent.  However,  The water will stiffen the leather after it dries and may leave it's own reference (e.g. a raised ring). The correct approach is with dry heat applied with a heat gun. That should tighten up the compression area. In this case it's the outside back. There is no formed foam substrate under the leather panel that is also compressed. You have to remove the panel. With a heat gun, focus the heat on and around the compression zone, continually moving the heat gun so as to not over cook in any single area. Do not focus the heat onto the leather in a single spot for more than a few seconds. It may take some time (15 - 20 minutes) but the leather should respond. If you wanted to be a bit more aggressive, then de-tack the bottom panel and with a spray bottle, mist the inside of the leather with water. Do not soak. Then apply the heat. De-tacking also gives the added advantage of pulling the panel tighter when re-tacking. There may be a slight reference of compression when all is said and done, but it will be vastly improved.

Here is a potential outcome.... the compression area tightens as expected. However, in a day or two, it reverts back, but to a much less degree like 10% to 25% of the original compression. (The leather has a memory and thinks it should be in that compressed shape.) If that happens, then you do the dry heat procedure again. Generally it only requires two applications. This is why we take on compression issues in our shop only, else we may be making multiple trips to the client.

In the event the compression is in an area that is backed with foam and the foam is compressed as well (e.g. the top of an arm) then disassembly is required to replace the damaged foam, or at least add batting material to shore up the divot under the leather. The leather can be treated as usual with heat, but the foam won't respond.
 
Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan



Effect of Alcohol on Leather.

Here is the body of an email recently received and photos as well.

"I have a recliner which is brown leather, 20 years old, but was in good condition. We sprayed it with fulll-concentration rubbing alcohol to kill mites. The alchohol has left white areas which are residues or stains (bleached areas). They don't wash off with soap, tho while they are wet they appear to be restored to the original brown color. I'm not sure if we need something special to clean them, vs. needing to restain the leather."
As you can see, the alcohol stripped the color from the leahter.

Alcohol is a stripping agent and will pull the color out of leather, leaving the affect you see.



This is correctable, but requires a full refinish or a kit for you to do the work.

Finally, As an aside, mites are generally not an issue with leather as its not a woven material, so there is no place for them to "hide" as they would with a fabric. A good leather cleaner would have done the trick for you and not effected the color.

Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Can nubuck leather be restored?

I received an e-mail regarding nubuck leather restoration. The sender asked several questions about  restoration issues for nubuck.  Her questions are common so I am posting them here along with my response.
 

1. Can the oil extractor be used without redyeing after? - No.  the oil extractor pulls out the offending oils but does not resolve the stain. You must apply color to conceal the stain.

2.  Can I redye the nubuck and not turn it into a finished leather/ maintain the soft nubuck feel?  - No.  
A.) The coloring chemistry required to conceal fading or staining is NOT a dye.  Dyes are translucent, therefore lack covering power.  To conceal staining you must use a chemistry that consists of large robust molecules for covering power.  That's the essence of a pigment.  So you would transform from an unfinished (dyed) leather to a finished (pigmented) leather.  
B.) Regarding the feel issue, our process is designed to have minimal impact on the tactile presentation when the process is applied according to our instructions. Nonetheless, we cannot claim it will feel like your nubuck when it was new.  It will appear to be new, but it will have a finish on the leather whereas now there is no finish on the leather, so to a degree, you trade off  tactile for visual.

3. Can I send a swatch  to you to  do a sample  so I know how much harder/stiffer it will be after re dyed?  Yes.  Keep in mind that we will select a random color for this test as it's to test feel related issues only.  Else we have to invest in a technician's time to do a color match.  We charge $75 for a color match.  In this case color is not the issue.

4. How long do you guarantee the color to not rub, crack or peel off.  There are three variables in the process. A.) The chemistry, B.) The application technique and C.) The initial condition of the leather.  
A). The Chemistry --- Our DIY system is based on the same chemistry (improved over the years) we've been using professionally for over 20 years.  It is manufactured by us to strict standards --- chemically engineered to withstand the rigors of a normal household.  Because we make these finishes, we are in control of the quality of ingredients.  Frankly we believe that they are as good as if not better than anything coming our of a tannery today.  
B.) The application technique --- I cannot control your application technique.  If you do not follow the instructions, I can't control the outcome.  We have client's where we have completed conversions from nubuck to finished leather who have had many years of additional use from their faded, stained leather. Our guarantee is 100% money back for the kit if you are not satisfied after you do an initial test on your leather.   Beyond that, the long term viability of the process is a joint responsibility, your application and our chemistry.  
C.) Initial condition of the leather --- while the leather can be stained or faded, as long as the integrity of the leather itself is not compromised, then the system works as advertised.  This point is amplified in the next response.  

5.The local leather repair experts in my area  all maintain that  touch up redye  (post tanning) is usually a temporary fix  with an expected lifetime of 3 years.  If this were true, then we would not have succeeded in this business for over 20 years.  As notes previously, a key to success is the integrity of the existing leather.  As long as the epidermis of the hide is still intact, then the system works beautifully, offering like-new results. This is a critical variable.  If the leather is fundamentally compromised then the issue is the leather, not the restoration system.  It is for this reason we require photos so I can evaluate the condition of your leather before we produce a kit.   I will not offer any guarantee if my evaluation determines that the leather is beyond restoration.

copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan

Saturday, May 22, 2010

The DIY Leather Solutions Generic Color System.

Check out this YouTube video that shows the two brown generic coloring systems.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zbRCes4NMw

It shows the difference between Coffee Bean and Mahogany from DIY Leather Solutions.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Leather Jacket Color Restoration

One of the joys of this business is encountering people with creative flair.  One such person is Barbara Carney in Chicago, IL.  Barbara has been using Advanced Leather Solutions Do-It-Yourself leather color system in interesting ways.

To see what I'm talking about, follow this link to see what she's done to an old leather jacket that she found at the Salvation Army.

http://picasaweb.google.com/kpgillan/LeatherJacketColorRestoration#

With our color system, people are changing color of all kinds of items, from ice skates to purses.  There are no rules.  Let your creative juices flow.  Find an old abandoned leather "whatever" and make it uniquely yours with the leather restoration tools and products from Advanced Leather Solutions.

Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan

Thursday, May 6, 2010

Cigarette Burn in Leather - A Repair

Occasionally at Advanced Leather Solutions we're asked to repair a burn hole in leather. This can be tricky business and best left to the expertise of a professional leather repair technician. To solve the problem correctly involves a multi-step procedure.


1. The heat of the burn will distort and pucker the leather immediately surrounding the hole.  This damaged leather has to be cut away, enlarging the wound to release the torque lines caused by the heat.  And, the leather in the surrounding area is prepared, typically with alcohol to remove any inhibitors to quality adhesion of the color coat.
2. A "plug" of leather is cut to the shape of the enlarged hole.
3. Sub-patch material is affixed with the sub-patch adhesive to the back side of the leather under the hole to give the repaired area some strength.
4. The leather plug is glued in place using non-flammable contact cement filling most of the hole.
5. The gap between the plug and the original leather is filled with a leather fill compound.
6. Once the fill is cured, a coat of color is then added with a hand held air brush.  Getting the color to match is key to disguising the repair.
7. A grain pattern is then created on the leather to resemble the grain of the surrounding leather.
8.  The color coat is re-applied.  Steps 7 and 8 may be repeated multiple times as the area may be sanded gently, re-grained and recolored .
9. A top coat is then applied that covers the color coat.  the top coat is a clear coat that protects the leather.

When done correctly, the end result looks like this.

Typically, this level of detail is beyond the scope of a novice.  The low-end (cheap) repair kits generally don't produce the results expected as success is as much about the right application techniques as it is about the right repair products.  Mastery of these techniques comes with proper training and experience.


The following URL will take you to a picture sequence of the full repair process.

http://picasaweb.google.com/kpgillan/BurnRepairSequence#

Copyright  2010 Kevin Gillan

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

How to use a Badger 250 Air Brush kit

Occasionally we have the a client that requires an air brush as part of their Do It Yourself (DIY) Leather Restoration kit.  This is a video on YouTube that shows how to assemble the air canister to the brush and control the air pressure as well as droplet size.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9CK8fyLnk4

Friday, April 30, 2010

The Animal Hospital of America

Advanced Leather Solutions (ALS) has established The Leather Animal Hospital of America.

A company in the UK, Omersa, creates wonderful leather animals.  They've been in business since 1927 and have clients all over the world with many in the USA.  To offer services to the aging leather animal population of North America, ALS has agreed to open the Advanced Leather Solutions Leather Animal Critical Care Unit (the ALSLACCU) in Hayward, California.

The Public Relations Director for ALSLACCU stated, "Our goal is provide critical services that care for, repair and restore these magnificent beasts." 

On hearing the good news, a Leather Animal Society spokesperson said, "It's about time someone has stepped up. Society needs these kinds of services.  After all, how we care for our leather animal friends indicates the state of our civilization."

Here is a link to the original manufacturer's web-site: http://www.omersa.co.uk/   After entering their Show Room, Click on the Animal Hospital button and then the Animal Hospital of America.



Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan

Thursday, April 29, 2010

Jaguar XK-120, 1953 Leather Restoration Project

At Advanced Leather Solutions, we sometimes find ourselves in projects that test the boundaries of our experience and skill set, requiring new and inventive strategies and chemistry to complete the project.   The leather restoration of a 1953 Jaguar XK-120 seats was such a project.  The client's goal was to save the original leather.  This then became a leather conservation and preservation project.  


The leather seating was in a very serious state of deterioration with many fissures and cracks into as well as completely through the leather. Most people would have said that the only way to "restore" these seats was to replace with new leather due to the extensive deterioration.  However, with a classic car, our first priority is always to save and preserve the original leather, as this is integral to the valuation of the vehicle. 


We have recently completed the project.  The process incorporated both traditional and new chemistries and techniques, including the resolution of oil saturation, fiber separation and break-down, finish failure, pH damage, and other issues. 


The result was both a structural and aesthetic success, while retaining the original materials, and it's  "antique" patina. We documented the process via video. The video is available for download (please note, this is a non-streaming 241Mb mpg file, and may take a while to download, depending on your connection speed). Right-click on the following link, and choose "Save target as" (IE), or "Save link as" (Firefox, Chrome) from the menu, and save to the location of your choice on your hard-drive. download link.


If the download link doesn't begin bringing the video file into your computer, then click on this direct link:


http://www.advleather.com/Produce_9.mpg

Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Hand Wiped Coloring Affect

Sometimes we'll encounter leather that has been colored with a base and print technique where the print coat is applied partially with a hand wiped affect. This give the leather sort of a European hand rubbed look. Through use, this print coat will be worn away or may fade from sun exposure.  Looking at a protected area on the piece will show the original color and how the mottled affect renders.  To mimic the original look requires some creativity.  First the base coat has to be right and then not only does the print coat color require precision, but application technique is critical to allow the color affect to render correctly.  Check this YouTube link to see such an example that we just created for one of our DIY Leather Solutions clients.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-w24ClMDFVE

Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan

Sunday, April 25, 2010

Leather Rhino Restoration

From time to time Advanced Leather Solutions gets involved with some interesting projects that are outside the bounds of our standard leather furniture restoration process. The rhinoceros project is a clear example.

The beast is 60 years old and has been kicking around the client's house for many years. It came to us in a serious state of dis-repair, missing its tail, eyes and its horn broken off. Here is a video posted on YouTube showing the before and after condition.




Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan

Friday, April 23, 2010

What's in a DIY Leather Restoration Kit?


The simple answer --- Advanced Leather Solutions includes everything necessary to get the job done.

Our kit structure is not about quantities of material as much as it’s about making sure they are the RIGHT materials for a specific leather restoration project (e.g. colored matched to specification, appropriate primer for the leather, etc.). As professional leather furniture restorers with 21 years experience in doing this work for our clients, we know what works and what is a prescription for failure. With our program the client is tapping into our professional experience, not just buying products. With our program, we are involved as much or little as the client desires. We think of the project as the client being our hands on-site. This is a key reason why we have had enormous success with this program.

The additional beauty is that the system is water based, so safe for the environment and safe to use in a home.

Now, on to the details....

Each color restoration system is custom tailored to the specifics of that client's furniture. We manufacture most of these components in our shop. We're not a reseller. We're the manufacturer. But, more importantly, we make this material for our own professional use. As leather repair and restoration specialists we could buy from any other supplier. However, we choose to make our own for quality control and effectiveness purposes.

Here are the contents of a typical kit for a configuration like a sofa, love seat, chair and ottoman:

1. Custom Base Color - matched specifically to your leather. - 128 oz. The coloring chemistry is our unique blend. We buy raw materials and blend them for best performance and spot-on color matched to the client’s color.

2. Custom Print Color - matched specifically to your leather. - 64 oz - This is an optional component if your leather has a mottled coloring affect that we are matching. When we examine your sample swatch, we analysis the color to determine if it's required.

3. Deep Penetrating Moisturizer - to improve the suppleness of your leather. 16 oz. This is a specialty product unique to our company.

4. Oil Extractor - To address any body oil issues in the leather furniture. If this step is omitted and there are body oils in the leather (very common) then it’s the place any system will fail. - 32 oz. We created this product and it is not available from any other source.

5. Primer - This sets up the leather to accept the color. Proper priming is essential to quality color adhesion. 48 oz. This also is a unique creation of ours and not available any where else.

6. Sanding pads - This is necessary to knock down chaffing that is usually evident on the high wear areas like the top of the seats. Also, it’s to be applied as necessary between each color coat to help get you to a more factory like result. These are a specialty product manufactured by 3M and not commonly available.

7. Priming Pad - This is like a heavy duty Scotch-Brite like pad made by the abrasives company, Norton, that you will use to drive the primer into the high wear areas like the top of the seats. (Not commonly available.)

8. Priming glove - This is a great tool to use in the priming step to ensure complete priming in creases, etc.

9. Foam brush color applicator - This are not the ordinary foam brush. These are the best money can buy. Most foam brushes will not hold up to prolonged use. These do.

10. Foam block applicator - This is a unique specialty product we manufacture for ease of application. It's a closed-cell foam color applicator that we contour and cut such that it fits neatly in your hand. You cannot buy this any place as we are the only company that actually makes them.

11. Tamping tool - This is another unique product we create that allows for best results when creating a subtle mottling affect on leather.

12. Tamping tub. - This carries the print color.

13. Polishing Paper - This is a unique tool that improves the end tactile result. Polishing paper is another specialty product made by 3M but is not widely available.

14. Final Dressing - This chemistry imparts a silky smooth feel to the leather and the last step in the process. 16 oz. This also is unique to us.

15. Written Instructions - 30 pages pictures, a flow diagram that shows the overall system and each step in the procedure.

16. DVD(s) - We include a general DVD with each kit. We include specific targeted DVDs as necessary. For example if you have cat scratches we have a DVD specific to correcting cat claw damage.

17. Latex gloves - While this is water based chemistry, we include latex gloves to protect your hands.

18. Practice leather. - Each kit contains a section of practice leather so you can practice any step off of your furniture if you desire.

19. Full telephone or video conferencing support (if you have that facility) at any time before, during or after the project.

The kit will include specialty items if necessary. For example if the client has an open seam, we include the sewing tools necessary and show the client how through a DVD.

A client can purchase each of these items separately from our web-site. With the Kit System concept, we package them specific to the target configuration. As a bundle, the client is generally saving between 25% and 50% versus the "a-la-carte" approach.

Finally, if a client brought their pieces to our Hayward, CA Advanced Leather Solutions studio to restore (professional restoration is 4 – 5 times more than the cost of a kit), the client could care less what materials we consumed in the process. In that context we think of the DIY System similarly. The client is paying a fixed fee to get the job done. We deliver far more than is necessary to ensure the client has enough material to complete the project. This means the kit becomes a built-in maintenance product going forward as the client has the color.

Back to the basics- What’s in a kit? This simple answer applies. The kit contains everything I would need if I walked into a client's home to do this job for them. At the end of the day, we set this system up to maximize the probability of success.

Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan


Thursday, April 22, 2010

When does it make sense NOT to repair damaged leather?


Look carefully at this photo...



This is a close-up taken of a leather seat cushion damaged by a dog claw that penetrated through the leather. However, look at the surrounding leather. The color coating is coming apart because the leather itself is disintegrating. This leather is known as a "split-hide." Simply put, its an inferior grade that lacks the tinsel strength you would expect from leather.

The damage is too severe and the integrity of the leather too weak to be able to hold a repair. Any repair effort would fail in short order because of the inherent weakness of the base leather. The only viable solution is to replace the afflicted panel. That would cost upwards of $1,000. as the piece would have to be disassembled to get at the defective panel. It just doesn't make sense to invest that much additional into an inferior piece. So, the piece is destined for an early entry into a landfill.

Here's a picture of the full piece. It looks inviting. The damaged panel is the back panel of the left facing seat cushion.
The novice consumer would have no way of knowing that they are purchasing an inferior product as it would look on the surface no different than quality (top grain) leather. Through use, the inherent weakness shows itself. If this was a top grain leather, the dog claw would not have been able to penetrate and the leather as you see it in the photo would not be disintegrating.

In our Hayward, CA leather furniture restoration studio we often see pieces that are more than 50 years old exemplifying the excellent durability one should expect from leather furniture. However, in today's world of cheap manufacturing techniques intended to maximize profits, the public is often being sold "leather" that has a life expectancy of only a few years.

If you are in the market for leather furniture be sure that you know what you are buying. Ask the question: Is this top grain leather? If you are uncomfortable with the response, then don't purchase it.

To learn more about leather and its properties, cut and paste this link into your browser.


Advanced Leather Solutions is a resource that will be able to answer your questions about leather. We're here to help.


Copyright 2010 Kevin Gillan



Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Does leather conditioner clog pores?


I've heard some strange theories about the care and maintenance of leather. Recently, it was brought to my attention that there are people who hold the belief that conditioners are bad for leather as it will "clog the pores." I have no idea how they come up with their theory. Clog the pores? What does that mean? Is the leather going to develop a "black-head" or a pimple due to clogged pores?

Here are the facts. Keep in mind that the cow is dead. The pores are non-functional. The animal isn't sweating anymore. There are no more body oils being produced by the animal. Nothing is coming up from inside the skin through the pores. What's to get clogged?

Furthermore, a pore is just one structural element found across the topography of a hide. Looked at under a microscope (even a simple magnifying glass) will demonstrate that the pore structure represents a small percentage of the overall surface area. Leather is absorbent across its entire surface, not just the pores.

If you put a massive amount of a heavy, greasy substance as some leather conditioner manufacturers propose, the real problem is that the skin can't absorb it. So it dries on the surface and leaves the leather feeling sticky, gooey (clogged pores?).

Consider the following:

1. Leather has about 25% moisture content coming out of the tannery.
2. That moisture evaporates to the atmosphere at a rate based on 3 variables: A) humidity B) temperature and C) porosity of the hide. (An unfinished leather will dry out faster than a finished leather because it loses moisture at a more rapid rate as the natural skin surface is not coated. A finished leather has a coating that will hold the moisture in longer. In both cases moisture is lost from the suede side as well.) The more heavily finished, the slower the rate of moisture loss. The corollary is that a heavily finished leather will be less absorbent of any moisturizing agent. If its slow to go out, then its also slow to go in.
3. As the leather loses moisture, the fiber bundles lose its internal lubrication, the leather stiffens. Furthermore, it loses a portion of its mass, consequently shrinks.
4. The purpose of a conditioner is to re-instill that lost moisture - improving suppleness, prolonging the life of the leather. Period.
5. Don't replenish moisture (don't apply conditioner) and it surely shortens the life of the leather as the leather desiccates.

pH Balance

What is far more important is to understand that leather is acidic (4.5 to 5.0 oh a pH scale). A lot of harm is done by applying a chemistry that is not pH balanced to leather as it will induce a chemical reaction breaking down (rotting) the fiber structure. Consider body oil accumulation - some people are very caustic (pH below 3.5), causing the demise of the leather. Advanced Leather Solutions cleaners and conditioners are pH balanced to leather, thus helping to correct any pH imbalance combating the rotting affect.

Museums use non-volatile moisturizers.

At the conservation and preservation (museum) level, it is true that a standard grade conditioner MAY do more harm than good. Once leather gets to a certain level of moisture loss (estimated at below between 5 and 10%) then adding a greasy conditioner at that point may render the leather to mush. (Think about cardboard when it gets wet). So the goal is to make sure the moisture content of leather never gets to that low a level by regularly conditioning your fine leathers.

Most conditioners are made from organics like neatsfoot oil which is also the "natural oils" infused into the leather at the tannery. Organics are volatile, meaning they evaporate, which is the fundamental reason why leather needs moisture added from time to time.

A non-volatile moisturizer is a synthetic and does not evaporate. However, they are very expensive so the tanneries generally don't use them. Advanced Leather Solutions has developed a Deep Penetrating moisturizer which is a non-volatile conditioner. It's a highly specialized chemistry that acts like countless tiny ball bearings infused within the fiber structure. In that sense its not a liquid (doesn't evaporate). Once applied, you don't have to continually moisturize as there is no loss to the atmosphere.

Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Leather Jacket Reconditioning


One of the benefits of my position is that I receive regular emails from our clients extolling the virtues of our products. It’s fun to hear how a client can take a Salvation Army find and return it into something resembling its former glory with a simple procedure.

Here is the short but powerful testament to what our SG – 50 leather care product can do to a well worn leather jacket.

“Kevin,

SG-50 does amazing things! Softens, darkens, adds suppleness - look!

--- BC, Chicago

Look at this one picture associated with that statement. The client took this picture after she had applied SG – 50 to the right facing side of the jacket and a little bit to the upper left facing side.



There is photo sequence taken by a client of Advanced Leather Solutions demonstrates the revitalizing properties of our premier leather care product - SG - 50. Check out how you can improve the look and feel of a well worn leather jacket.

For a complete set of the photos, cut and paste this URL into your browser and it will take you to Picasa where you can see all of the pictures taken by the client.

http://picasaweb.google.com/kpgillan/LeatherJacketReconditioned#


Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan

Monday, April 19, 2010

Print Coat Failure

One of the more common problems we see from our clients is “Print Coat Failure.” Look at the photo below. See how much lighter the tops of the seats are compared to the front face of the sofa, below the seat cushions. While this is a solvable problem, its roots are in how the leather was processed at the tannery.


Here is the content of an e-mail sent from someone who has this problem.
You have what's known as a "Base and Print" coloring strategy used on your leather at the tannery. While this is a common coloring strategy, There are about a dozen manufacturers that buy form tanneries where the coloring system does not hold up to normal use conditions. We've seen this type of color coating failure dozens of times before. The culprit is combination of:

1. Poor wear resistance of the top coat.

2. Poor adhesion of the print color coat.

Both are a function of the tannery that produced this leather.

Definition of terms:

Top coat is a clear coat that is the primary protective coating. It covers all leather surfaces and should provide chemical and wear resistance.
Print coat is the outer color coating in a two color system. The inner color coat is called a base coat.

On your piece, the print coat is the somewhat translucent medium brown color. The base coat is a yellowish color that is now being exposed as the print coat is worn away. The intent of this two color system is to create a mottled coloring affect where the color presented is the interplay of the two colors. This coloring approach is very common but usually much more stable then you've experienced.

In your case normal abrasion of your clothing against the top coat has worn it away. And now the print coat is quickly following suit.
So now you know why this is happening, what's the fix... you prime the leather to receive the color and re-color. In the priming step you'll test for quality of adhesion of the existing color coating. This will determine if any stripping of the existing color is necessary. We're happy to create a DIY kit for you.  Contact me via email with photos: Kevin@AdvLeather.com.  We'll provide a quote and build a customized kit for you.  It will include everything you'll need for this job.

You can also call Advanced Leather Solutions at 800-541-5982 to learn more.

Copyright 2019, Kevin Gillan

Friday, April 16, 2010

Darwin Awards for Leather Repair

I receive lots of e-mails from people all over the country and beyond. Some of them are seeking solutions for some pretty dumb actions that have caused serious damage to their leather furniture. I’ve also been in people’s homes to inspect or repair their leather as well as people bringing projects to our shop. Some of their abuses and comments prove the concept that idiocy is not an unusual human phenomenon. Here is a list of my top ten dumbest in no specific order as any one can grab the top spot. Names have been removed to protect their reputation.

1. I used my ottoman as an ironing board. The leather is totally shrunken and distorted. Can you help me?

2. I saw an article on the internet that said to use bleach to clean leather. It didn’t work so great. The leather is clean I guess, but it’s disintegrating on me. What can I do?

3. I steam cleaned my leather sofa with the upholstery attachment to my steam cleaner. The leather turned dark and seemed to have shrunk. Please help!!

4. I was practicing my golf swing and punched a hole in the back of my beautiful leather sofa. It was a 6 iron. Is this something you can fix?

5. I had a party and moved my love seat into my back yard. I had it too close to the barbeque. The whole back of my love seat got fried. What can I do?

6. My 3 year old son got ink on my new leather cushion. After I disciplined him severely I tried to remove the ink with rubbing alcohol like it said to do on some web-site. The ink is still there but the leather color is gone. (The client brought the cushion in my shop. In this case, there was a hide scar on the leather and as is often the case, the scar tissue absorbed higher concentration of color making it darker than the surrounding leather, appearing to the client as an ink stripe. We restored the color to the alcohol afflicted area. The innocent child is still in therapy.)

7. Upon arrival to the client’s home to inspect for claimed defects in the leather of a huge new sectional, I noted a few dozen post-it notes scattered here and there on the leather. The client applied them to identify all the “defects.” Upon examination of the first problem area, I pointed out that it was not a defect, rather a natural characteristic in the leather. She seemed confused. So I explained that the cow may have rubbed against barb wire, causing the wound, and that it is fully healed hide scar and therefore not a defect. She said; “What do you mean a cow?” I waved my arm toward the sectional and replied, “Ma’am you have a whole herd of cows here.” At which point she dropped to the floor, sobbing, “What have I done? What have I done?” Turns out she’s vegan and had no idea leather came from a cow. Opppps.

8. Asked to do a repair for transit damage in a client’s home, I arrived on site with my senior technician. The client is a prominent physician and was present upon arrival. He and his designer went off to another part of his house to discuss décor. When the assignment was completed, I called him in and as he examined the repaired area, with a look of amazement exclaimed, “It’s gone. How did you do that?” Lightheartedly I said, “We use lasers.” He called out to his designer to see the repair. When she arrived, he said to her, “Look, the damage is gone. They use lasers to fix it.” I had to explain to the sheepish doctor that I was joking.

9. After carefully restoring a beautiful chair and ottoman in our Hayward shop, the client arrived in a pick-up truck to bring the pieces back to his home. He inspected the furniture and was delighted with the results. To prepare it for transit, we covered it in plastic and shrink wrap as is our standard practice. The client and I loaded it into the back of his pick up I asked if he had rope to secure it. He assured me that he did. At which point my office phone rang. I turned back into my office to take the call. The client promptly left. On his way across the San Mateo Bridge, at 70 or so miles an hour, the unsecured furniture pretended to be a kite and silently lifted out of the bed of the truck, tumbling through the air like a wounded duck. Gravity took over. It flipped and turned and smashed and crashed. Road kill. 45 minutes later he was back in our shop with a severely damage piece including a broken frame. Cost to repair the damage exceeded the value of the piece. It remains in my shop as a relic and testament to the frailty of the human brain.

10. A client owns an auto detailing shop. His customer has a BMW with leather interior. The auto detailer assigned the interior cleaning task to one of his grease monkey techs. Thinking it would be a fast and easy way to clean leather he grabbed his trusty engine degreaser and vigorously applied it to all leather components. Of course it pulled the color coat off, exposing the raw leather. (As an aside, here is a list of other chemicals that our clients were told by supposed experts would be appropriate for the cleaning of their leather --- mayonnaise, acetone, milk, honey, baby oil, detergents of all types, saddle soap. )

Bonus award: Client called to say that he’s cleaned his sofa with 409. Upon full completion of the project he realized that 409 is far too aggressive and has severely distorted the color coating. He was shocked and was preparing to sue 409’s manufacturer. His reasoning for the suit was that there was no warning on the label not to use it on leather. When I pointed out to him that there was also no warning about using it on your face, he didn’t get the connection. Asked why he didn’t stop after he completed a section and noticed the damage, he explained that he thought when it fully dried it would return to normal. Duh!!

From time to time I would enjoy entering posts about the experiences of other leather technicians who may have encountered similarly brain challenged clients. It’s all good for a laugh.

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Leather Repair Artistry

The following two photos show a before and after sequence of damaged printed leather. Nail polish got on to the leather and the client removed the nail polish, taking the color of the leather with it leaving a visible bleached spot. In their effort to clean the nail polish, the client rubbed the leather aggressively with an abrasive tool. Notice the score marks above the bleached spot.

The afflicted area was meticulously hand colored with an artist brush. Getting the color right is the key.


Just another day at the leather restoration studio of Advanced Leather Solutions in Hayward, CA.

Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan
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Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Leather & Vinyl Combination on Furniture - Good or Bad Idea?

When buying leather furniture, ask this question, “Is it all leather?”.

Many Advanced Leather Solutions clients are surprised to find out that the “leather” furniture they purchased is in fact a leather and vinyl combination. They make this discovery when they notice splitting or cracking in the material. This most often occurs in the side panel of a seat cushion, or at a stress-bearing seam (outside arm, outside top of backrest, etc.).



The typical construction of a leather/vinyl combination is to use leather on those areas that come in contact with your body - the seat cushion top, the inside backrest and the tops of the armrests. All other panels, including the outside back, side panels, sides of the seat cushion, and arm- and back-rest anchor-panels are vinyl.

Here’s the problem. Vinyl is a synthetic material (and has nowhere near the tensile strength of leather). Leather is an organic material. The two materials are fundamentally incompatible when joined together along a seam. This is particularly apparent on a seat cushion (see the picture) where the vinyl side panel (boxing panel) is sewn to the leather top panel. Leather is porous and loses its moisture through evaporation (which is why leather should be conditioned regularly). To replace this lost moisture, the leather literally wicks (draws by absorption) oils from the vinyl where the two materials are in contact with each other along a seam, reducing the oil content of the vinyl. As the vinyl loses its moisture, it also loses its ability to flex, and subsequently cracks. This is most commonly seen as fissures that start at stitch-holes and run perpendicular to the seam line. Over time, these cracks will only worsen. Once this starts, it is not repairable.

Leather/vinyl combination manufacturing strategies (sometimes referred to as leather-mate, leather-match, or other marketing terms) are a ploy by the manufacturer to reduce cost. And in this reduction in materials cost for the manufacturer, the life expectancy of the furniture is greatly diminished. By as much as 75%, depending on usage patterns.

Recliners are the most common type of furniture for leather and vinyl match. One prominent San Francisco bay area retailer told us that 70% of all supposed leather recliners are actually leather/vinyl.

If you expect a long, useful life from your leather furniture - be careful at the point of purchase. Ask the question, “Is the piece all leather?” If the answer is yes, then make sure that appears on your sales reciept. You can check by examining the back side of the material. If it appears to be a fuzzy material or a woven fabric (usually white, but can also be gray, black, or brown), it’s vinyl. If it looks like suede, it’s probably leather.

If you already own a leather/vinyl match, pay careful attention to your conditioning regimen. We have great Leather Care products for exactly this purpose. If the leather is regularly moisturized, it will have less of a tendency to draw the oil from the adjacent vinyl panel. Also, when sitting on or exiting the seating area, try not to put undue stress on the seams where the arm or back pillow attach to the frame.

Copyright 2009 Kevin Gillan

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Is it real Leather?

This is a common e-mail for me....

How can I, as a consumer, determine the difference between real leather and faux? I've been shopping for a sofa, love seat and recliner for my home and have looked at all kinds of products. Every store I visit has a different take on what is real and what is a good quality. I can usually recognize real leather, but not always ----- what are the obvious clues??????????

In this blog entry, here is my advice for the consumer that is shopping for leather furniture, to determine if its the real deal or synthetic.

1. The best test is the inside of the material. The inside of leather will appear as suede whereas the inside of synthetic has a woven typically fuzzy, often white material.

2. Look at the cross section. Leather is one material (a skin) whereas synthetic is a bonding of plastic surface to a fabric substrate.

3. Pinch it. Leather is thicker, vinyl is thinner. To become familiar, find something you know is leather and pinch it to get a benchmark sense of the thickness.

4. Look for imperfections (hide scars, bug bites, etc.) Leather hides are not perfect across the surface (like knots in wood). Vinyl has no surface characteristics as it's man made.

5. Look for a repeating pattern. Like wall paper, vinyl is manufactured with a specific pattern that repeats itself.

6. Large versus small panels - Leather is from an animal that has limitations dimensionally (ever see a 20 foot cow?), vinyl is produced on a roll with no limits to size.

7. Grain Pattern - If the grain pattern is totally uniform its probably vinyl. Nature does not produce complete uniformity.

What is NOT the real deal - Vinyl, Bonded leather, Bicast leather, ultra suede. Bonded and bicast are equivalent to pressed wood or fiberboard. They are made from what used to be leather waste material. Read the article about bi-cast leather for more information. that then has a heavy urethane coating on the surface. The typical color is a glossy brown. Bonded and bicast lack durability and present all kinds of problems.

What is real, but lacks durability - Split-hide. This is the remnant of a leather hide after the epidermis has been split away.

Ask the following questions:

1. Is it top grain leather? Top grain means the epidermis of the skin is intact. This is important as the epidermis is where the durability of leather comes from.

2. Is it all leather? Many manufacturers cut costs by building leather furniture with part leather and part vinyl. This is not death mind you, but a potential problem along the seam where the leather and vinyl meet.

3. Can I see a swatch of the material used? Look at it front and back. Is it the same color on top and on the inside? Is it suede on the inside? Most leather manufacturers give the retailers samples of the leather they use for exactly this reason. Be wary if they can't produce a swatch for your examination.

4. Who is the manufacturer? Do your research and look up who built the piece. There are several quality manufacturers - American Leather, Hancock and Moore, Drexel Heritage, The Sherrill Collection, Leather Craft, Ekornes (Swedish). And then there is the very high end European manufacturers - Roche Bobois, B & B Italia, Cassina, Gamma, de Sede.

Beware of claims like "it's Italian leather." It means nothing. Natuzzi, an Italian manufacturer of leather furniture has three plants Italy, Brazil and China. Just because it has an Italian name doesn't mean its made in Italy.

Ask penetrating questions. If you aren't comfortable with an answer, run.

Some manufacturers like Nicoletti had an impeccable reputation 10 years ago. Their products today simply don't measure up. So don't rely on historical performance alone. The industry is being decimated by cheap foreign imports. To combat the onslaught some companies have capitulated and moved their plants to cheap labor countries and are now producing junk.

The unfortunate fact is there's a ton of misinformation on the web, and in the leather furniture retail channel. The probability is pretty high that you'll know more about leather now than the sales person who is selling the furniture. For more detail, visit our web-site. www.advleather.com. Go to the leather care section. If your sure its leather, the next question is what type of leather will perform best in your environment? From our web-site look at the features of the different leather types and make a determination of what will work for you. Then, pepper the sales person with questions.

Happy shopping!

copyright 2009 Kevin Gillan