Offering insights, ideas, facts and awareness regarding leather care, repair and restoration. The blog is for "do-it-yourself" consumers and leather technician professionals who want to learn about the world of maintaining leather furniture, automobile leathe fine leather articles like garments and bags.
Sunday, September 12, 2010
The pH of Leather - Or, How to Ruin Leather by Following Bad Advice
Friday, September 10, 2010
Leather Repair and Restoration Training
Objective Statement ---
This course is intended for people who repair and restore leather. At the conclusion of the course, the attendee will have a basic grasp of how to access a problem, develop a strategy for repair and execute the appropriate steps to create the most effective solution possible.
Course Includes ---
1. A fully outfitted professional level mobile kit with electrical wiring built in to support the included compressor, top-of-the-line airbrushing equipment, professional quality heat gun, etc. Additionally the kit contains all the other necessary tools and chemistry for repairing damaged leather. This is the same kit our service technicians use. It has evolved over the last 23 years of field repairs by our technicians to be as reliable, efficient and complete a repair kit as possible.
2. 3 1/2 days of hands-on training with each attendee working from his/her personal kit. The lead trainer has been repairing leather furniture for over 21 years, having successfully repaired thousands of damaged leather furniture pieces. The course takes that deep practical experience and brings it to each attendee.
3. One hundred eighty page Leather Technician's Field Guide that covers the course material. It is written in an organized, easy-to-read fashion. The attendee can focus on the hands-on activities without the need to take notes as the specific techniques are all well documented in the training guide.
4. Our commitment to follow-on telephone support. Our technical support team is ready to answer any questions and assist in any way possible in solving the problems faced by the attendee when back on the job.
5. Access to our library of DVD based training modules with a 3 year subscription. Here is a sample training related video sequence we have up on Picasa:
6. Customer relations issues are discussed so the repair technician is guided with effective answers to the difficult questions the consumer may be asking.
7. Certification as a trained professional leather technician.
8. An attendee can bring to the class specific leather problems they may have encountered and see how our technicians solve them.
The fee for a single person (including the technician's kit) is $3,600. A second person from the same entity is an additional $1,200. We require $1,000 deposit and the balance due upon arrival for the trainingsession.
This program is in essence a "Business in a Box" concept. It doesn't have any of the financial burdens and territorial limitations of a franchise that may cost many thousands of dollars more. For more information, contact us via e-mail: Kevin@ADVLeather.com, or via phone in the US at 510-786-6059.
Wednesday, September 8, 2010
Advanced Leather Solutions SG Series Marketing Info
- Auto Dealerships (new and used)
- Aftermarket auto supply stores (Pep boys, etc.)
- Auto paint shops (Earl Schibb, etc.)
- Auto detailer
- Car washers
- Auto clubs
- Large chain stores
- Furniture retailers
- Direct sales via advertising in auto trader, etc.
- Direct sales via internet
- Flea market booths
- Create an article for publication in a trade journal. Focus on uniqueness. Examples available for ADVleather.com
- Make up 1 or 2 oz samples and distribute through above channels – try it, you’ll like it approach.
- Create point-of-sale displays again emphasizing uniqueness of product offering.
- Direct sales to each of the above listed sales channels.
Monday, September 6, 2010
How to resolve a Dent in Leather
Effect of Alcohol on Leather.
Alcohol is a stripping agent and will pull the color out of leather, leaving the affect you see.
This is correctable, but requires a full refinish or a kit for you to do the work.
Finally, As an aside, mites are generally not an issue with leather as its not a woven material, so there is no place for them to "hide" as they would with a fabric. A good leather cleaner would have done the trick for you and not effected the color.
Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Can nubuck leather be restored?
Saturday, May 22, 2010
The DIY Leather Solutions Generic Color System.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zbRCes4NMw
It shows the difference between Coffee Bean and Mahogany from DIY Leather Solutions.
Thursday, May 20, 2010
Leather Jacket Color Restoration
To see what I'm talking about, follow this link to see what she's done to an old leather jacket that she found at the Salvation Army.
http://picasaweb.google.com/kpgillan/LeatherJacketColorRestoration#
With our color system, people are changing color of all kinds of items, from ice skates to purses. There are no rules. Let your creative juices flow. Find an old abandoned leather "whatever" and make it uniquely yours with the leather restoration tools and products from Advanced Leather Solutions.
Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan
Thursday, May 6, 2010
Cigarette Burn in Leather - A Repair
1. The heat of the burn will distort and pucker the leather immediately surrounding the hole. This damaged leather has to be cut away, enlarging the wound to release the torque lines caused by the heat. And, the leather in the surrounding area is prepared, typically with alcohol to remove any inhibitors to quality adhesion of the color coat.
2. A "plug" of leather is cut to the shape of the enlarged hole.
3. Sub-patch material is affixed with the sub-patch adhesive to the back side of the leather under the hole to give the repaired area some strength.
4. The leather plug is glued in place using non-flammable contact cement filling most of the hole.
5. The gap between the plug and the original leather is filled with a leather fill compound.
6. Once the fill is cured, a coat of color is then added with a hand held air brush. Getting the color to match is key to disguising the repair.
7. A grain pattern is then created on the leather to resemble the grain of the surrounding leather.
8. The color coat is re-applied. Steps 7 and 8 may be repeated multiple times as the area may be sanded gently, re-grained and recolored .
9. A top coat is then applied that covers the color coat. the top coat is a clear coat that protects the leather.
When done correctly, the end result looks like this.
Typically, this level of detail is beyond the scope of a novice. The low-end (cheap) repair kits generally don't produce the results expected as success is as much about the right application techniques as it is about the right repair products. Mastery of these techniques comes with proper training and experience.
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
How to use a Badger 250 Air Brush kit
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9CK8fyLnk4
Friday, April 30, 2010
The Animal Hospital of America
A company in the UK, Omersa, creates wonderful leather animals. They've been in business since 1927 and have clients all over the world with many in the USA. To offer services to the aging leather animal population of North America, ALS has agreed to open the Advanced Leather Solutions Leather Animal Critical Care Unit (the ALSLACCU) in Hayward, California.
The Public Relations Director for ALSLACCU stated, "Our goal is provide critical services that care for, repair and restore these magnificent beasts."
On hearing the good news, a Leather Animal Society spokesperson said, "It's about time someone has stepped up. Society needs these kinds of services. After all, how we care for our leather animal friends indicates the state of our civilization."
Here is a link to the original manufacturer's web-site: http://www.omersa.co.uk/ After entering their Show Room, Click on the Animal Hospital button and then the Animal Hospital of America.
Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Jaguar XK-120, 1953 Leather Restoration Project
The leather seating was in a very serious state of deterioration with many fissures and cracks into as well as completely through the leather. Most people would have said that the only way to "restore" these seats was to replace with new leather due to the extensive deterioration. However, with a classic car, our first priority is always to save and preserve the original leather, as this is integral to the valuation of the vehicle.
We have recently completed the project. The process incorporated both traditional and new chemistries and techniques, including the resolution of oil saturation, fiber separation and break-down, finish failure, pH damage, and other issues.
The result was both a structural and aesthetic success, while retaining the original materials, and it's "antique" patina. We documented the process via video. The video is available for download (please note, this is a non-streaming 241Mb mpg file, and may take a while to download, depending on your connection speed). Right-click on the following link, and choose "Save target as" (IE), or "Save link as" (Firefox, Chrome) from the menu, and save to the location of your choice on your hard-drive. download link.
If the download link doesn't begin bringing the video file into your computer, then click on this direct link:
http://www.advleather.com/Produce_9.mpg
Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Hand Wiped Coloring Affect
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-w24ClMDFVE
Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Leather Rhino Restoration
Friday, April 23, 2010
What's in a DIY Leather Restoration Kit?
The simple answer --- Advanced Leather Solutions includes everything necessary to get the job done.
Our kit structure is not about quantities of material as much as it’s about making sure they are the RIGHT materials for a specific leather restoration project (e.g. colored matched to specification, appropriate primer for the leather, etc.). As professional leather furniture restorers with 21 years experience in doing this work for our clients, we know what works and what is a prescription for failure. With our program the client is tapping into our professional experience, not just buying products. With our program, we are involved as much or little as the client desires. We think of the project as the client being our hands on-site. This is a key reason why we have had enormous success with this program.
The additional beauty is that the system is water based, so safe for the environment and safe to use in a home.
Now, on to the details....
Each color restoration system is custom tailored to the specifics of that client's furniture. We manufacture most of these components in our shop. We're not a reseller. We're the manufacturer. But, more importantly, we make this material for our own professional use. As leather repair and restoration specialists we could buy from any other supplier. However, we choose to make our own for quality control and effectiveness purposes.
2. Custom Print Color - matched specifically to your leather. - 64 oz - This is an optional component if your leather has a mottled coloring affect that we are matching. When we examine your sample swatch, we analysis the color to determine if it's required.
3. Deep Penetrating Moisturizer - to improve the suppleness of your leather. 16 oz. This is a specialty product unique to our company.
13. Polishing Paper - This is a unique tool that improves the end tactile result. Polishing paper is another specialty product made by 3M but is not widely available.
The kit will include specialty items if necessary. For example if the client has an open seam, we include the sewing tools necessary and show the client how through a DVD.
Finally, if a client brought their pieces to our Hayward, CA Advanced Leather Solutions studio to restore (professional restoration is 4 – 5 times more than the cost of a kit), the client could care less what materials we consumed in the process. In that context we think of the DIY System similarly. The client is paying a fixed fee to get the job done. We deliver far more than is necessary to ensure the client has enough material to complete the project. This means the kit becomes a built-in maintenance product going forward as the client has the color.
Back to the basics- What’s in a kit? This simple answer applies. The kit contains everything I would need if I walked into a client's home to do this job for them. At the end of the day, we set this system up to maximize the probability of success.
Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan
Thursday, April 22, 2010
When does it make sense NOT to repair damaged leather?
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Does leather conditioner clog pores?
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Leather Jacket Reconditioning
One of the benefits of my position is that I receive regular emails from our clients extolling the virtues of our products. It’s fun to hear how a client can take a Salvation Army find and return it into something resembling its former glory with a simple procedure.
Here is the short but powerful testament to what our SG – 50 leather care product can do to a well worn leather jacket.
“Kevin,
“SG-50 does amazing things! Softens, darkens, adds suppleness - look!”
--- BC, Chicago
Look at this one picture associated with that statement. The client took this picture after she had applied SG – 50 to the right facing side of the jacket and a little bit to the upper left facing side.

There is photo sequence taken by a client of Advanced Leather Solutions demonstrates the revitalizing properties of our premier leather care product - SG - 50. Check out how you can improve the look and feel of a well worn leather jacket.
For a complete set of the photos, cut and paste this URL into your browser and it will take you to Picasa where you can see all of the pictures taken by the client.
http://picasaweb.google.com/kpgillan/LeatherJacketReconditioned#
Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan
Monday, April 19, 2010
Print Coat Failure

1. Poor wear resistance of the top coat.
2. Poor adhesion of the print color coat.
Both are a function of the tannery that produced this leather.
Definition of terms:
Top coat is a clear coat that is the primary protective coating. It covers all leather surfaces and should provide chemical and wear resistance.
Print coat is the outer color coating in a two color system. The inner color coat is called a base coat.
On your piece, the print coat is the somewhat translucent medium brown color. The base coat is a yellowish color that is now being exposed as the print coat is worn away. The intent of this two color system is to create a mottled coloring affect where the color presented is the interplay of the two colors. This coloring approach is very common but usually much more stable then you've experienced.
In your case normal abrasion of your clothing against the top coat has worn it away. And now the print coat is quickly following suit.
You can also call Advanced Leather Solutions at 800-541-5982 to learn more.
Friday, April 16, 2010
Darwin Awards for Leather Repair
1. I used my ottoman as an ironing board. The leather is totally shrunken and distorted. Can you help me?
2. I saw an article on the internet that said to use bleach to clean leather. It didn’t work so great. The leather is clean I guess, but it’s disintegrating on me. What can I do?
3. I steam cleaned my leather sofa with the upholstery attachment to my steam cleaner. The leather turned dark and seemed to have shrunk. Please help!!
4. I was practicing my golf swing and punched a hole in the back of my beautiful leather sofa. It was a 6 iron. Is this something you can fix?
5. I had a party and moved my love seat into my back yard. I had it too close to the barbeque. The whole back of my love seat got fried. What can I do?
6. My 3 year old son got ink on my new leather cushion. After I disciplined him severely I tried to remove the ink with rubbing alcohol like it said to do on some web-site. The ink is still there but the leather color is gone. (The client brought the cushion in my shop. In this case, there was a hide scar on the leather and as is often the case, the scar tissue absorbed higher concentration of color making it darker than the surrounding leather, appearing to the client as an ink stripe. We restored the color to the alcohol afflicted area. The innocent child is still in therapy.)
7. Upon arrival to the client’s home to inspect for claimed defects in the leather of a huge new sectional, I noted a few dozen post-it notes scattered here and there on the leather. The client applied them to identify all the “defects.” Upon examination of the first problem area, I pointed out that it was not a defect, rather a natural characteristic in the leather. She seemed confused. So I explained that the cow may have rubbed against barb wire, causing the wound, and that it is fully healed hide scar and therefore not a defect. She said; “What do you mean a cow?” I waved my arm toward the sectional and replied, “Ma’am you have a whole herd of cows here.” At which point she dropped to the floor, sobbing, “What have I done? What have I done?” Turns out she’s vegan and had no idea leather came from a cow. Opppps.
8. Asked to do a repair for transit damage in a client’s home, I arrived on site with my senior technician. The client is a prominent physician and was present upon arrival. He and his designer went off to another part of his house to discuss décor. When the assignment was completed, I called him in and as he examined the repaired area, with a look of amazement exclaimed, “It’s gone. How did you do that?” Lightheartedly I said, “We use lasers.” He called out to his designer to see the repair. When she arrived, he said to her, “Look, the damage is gone. They use lasers to fix it.” I had to explain to the sheepish doctor that I was joking.
9. After carefully restoring a beautiful chair and ottoman in our Hayward shop, the client arrived in a pick-up truck to bring the pieces back to his home. He inspected the furniture and was delighted with the results. To prepare it for transit, we covered it in plastic and shrink wrap as is our standard practice. The client and I loaded it into the back of his pick up I asked if he had rope to secure it. He assured me that he did. At which point my office phone rang. I turned back into my office to take the call. The client promptly left. On his way across the San Mateo Bridge, at 70 or so miles an hour, the unsecured furniture pretended to be a kite and silently lifted out of the bed of the truck, tumbling through the air like a wounded duck. Gravity took over. It flipped and turned and smashed and crashed. Road kill. 45 minutes later he was back in our shop with a severely damage piece including a broken frame. Cost to repair the damage exceeded the value of the piece. It remains in my shop as a relic and testament to the frailty of the human brain.
10. A client owns an auto detailing shop. His customer has a BMW with leather interior. The auto detailer assigned the interior cleaning task to one of his grease monkey techs. Thinking it would be a fast and easy way to clean leather he grabbed his trusty engine degreaser and vigorously applied it to all leather components. Of course it pulled the color coat off, exposing the raw leather. (As an aside, here is a list of other chemicals that our clients were told by supposed experts would be appropriate for the cleaning of their leather --- mayonnaise, acetone, milk, honey, baby oil, detergents of all types, saddle soap. )
Bonus award: Client called to say that he’s cleaned his sofa with 409. Upon full completion of the project he realized that 409 is far too aggressive and has severely distorted the color coating. He was shocked and was preparing to sue 409’s manufacturer. His reasoning for the suit was that there was no warning on the label not to use it on leather. When I pointed out to him that there was also no warning about using it on your face, he didn’t get the connection. Asked why he didn’t stop after he completed a section and noticed the damage, he explained that he thought when it fully dried it would return to normal. Duh!!
From time to time I would enjoy entering posts about the experiences of other leather technicians who may have encountered similarly brain challenged clients. It’s all good for a laugh.
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Leather Repair Artistry
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Leather & Vinyl Combination on Furniture - Good or Bad Idea?
Many Advanced Leather Solutions clients are surprised to find out that the “leather” furniture they purchased is in fact a leather and vinyl combination. They make this discovery when they notice splitting or cracking in the material. This most often occurs in the side panel of a seat cushion, or at a stress-bearing seam (outside arm, outside top of backrest, etc.).

The typical construction of a leather/vinyl combination is to use leather on those areas that come in contact with your body - the seat cushion top, the inside backrest and the tops of the armrests. All other panels, including the outside back, side panels, sides of the seat cushion, and arm- and back-rest anchor-panels are vinyl.
Here’s the problem. Vinyl is a synthetic material (and has nowhere near the tensile strength of leather). Leather is an organic material. The two materials are fundamentally incompatible when joined together along a seam. This is particularly apparent on a seat cushion (see the picture) where the vinyl side panel (boxing panel) is sewn to the leather top panel. Leather is porous and loses its moisture through evaporation (which is why leather should be conditioned regularly). To replace this lost moisture, the leather literally wicks (draws by absorption) oils from the vinyl where the two materials are in contact with each other along a seam, reducing the oil content of the vinyl. As the vinyl loses its moisture, it also loses its ability to flex, and subsequently cracks. This is most commonly seen as fissures that start at stitch-holes and run perpendicular to the seam line. Over time, these cracks will only worsen. Once this starts, it is not repairable.
Leather/vinyl combination manufacturing strategies (sometimes referred to as leather-mate, leather-match, or other marketing terms) are a ploy by the manufacturer to reduce cost. And in this reduction in materials cost for the manufacturer, the life expectancy of the furniture is greatly diminished. By as much as 75%, depending on usage patterns.
Recliners are the most common type of furniture for leather and vinyl match. One prominent San Francisco bay area retailer told us that 70% of all supposed leather recliners are actually leather/vinyl.
If you expect a long, useful life from your leather furniture - be careful at the point of purchase. Ask the question, “Is the piece all leather?” If the answer is yes, then make sure that appears on your sales reciept. You can check by examining the back side of the material. If it appears to be a fuzzy material or a woven fabric (usually white, but can also be gray, black, or brown), it’s vinyl. If it looks like suede, it’s probably leather.
If you already own a leather/vinyl match, pay careful attention to your conditioning regimen. We have great Leather Care products for exactly this purpose. If the leather is regularly moisturized, it will have less of a tendency to draw the oil from the adjacent vinyl panel. Also, when sitting on or exiting the seating area, try not to put undue stress on the seams where the arm or back pillow attach to the frame.
Copyright 2009 Kevin Gillan
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Is it real Leather?
How can I, as a consumer, determine the difference between real leather and faux? I've been shopping for a sofa, love seat and recliner for my home and have looked at all kinds of products. Every store I visit has a different take on what is real and what is a good quality. I can usually recognize real leather, but not always ----- what are the obvious clues??????????
In this blog entry, here is my advice for the consumer that is shopping for leather furniture, to determine if its the real deal or synthetic.
1. The best test is the inside of the material. The inside of leather will appear as suede whereas the inside of synthetic has a woven typically fuzzy, often white material.
2. Look at the cross section. Leather is one material (a skin) whereas synthetic is a bonding of plastic surface to a fabric substrate.
3. Pinch it. Leather is thicker, vinyl is thinner. To become familiar, find something you know is leather and pinch it to get a benchmark sense of the thickness.
4. Look for imperfections (hide scars, bug bites, etc.) Leather hides are not perfect across the surface (like knots in wood). Vinyl has no surface characteristics as it's man made.
5. Look for a repeating pattern. Like wall paper, vinyl is manufactured with a specific pattern that repeats itself.
6. Large versus small panels - Leather is from an animal that has limitations dimensionally (ever see a 20 foot cow?), vinyl is produced on a roll with no limits to size.
7. Grain Pattern - If the grain pattern is totally uniform its probably vinyl. Nature does not produce complete uniformity.
What is NOT the real deal - Vinyl, Bonded leather, Bicast leather, ultra suede. Bonded and bicast are equivalent to pressed wood or fiberboard. They are made from what used to be leather waste material. Read the article about bi-cast leather for more information. that then has a heavy urethane coating on the surface. The typical color is a glossy brown. Bonded and bicast lack durability and present all kinds of problems.
What is real, but lacks durability - Split-hide. This is the remnant of a leather hide after the epidermis has been split away.
Ask the following questions:
1. Is it top grain leather? Top grain means the epidermis of the skin is intact. This is important as the epidermis is where the durability of leather comes from.
2. Is it all leather? Many manufacturers cut costs by building leather furniture with part leather and part vinyl. This is not death mind you, but a potential problem along the seam where the leather and vinyl meet.
3. Can I see a swatch of the material used? Look at it front and back. Is it the same color on top and on the inside? Is it suede on the inside? Most leather manufacturers give the retailers samples of the leather they use for exactly this reason. Be wary if they can't produce a swatch for your examination.
4. Who is the manufacturer? Do your research and look up who built the piece. There are several quality manufacturers - American Leather, Hancock and Moore, Drexel Heritage, The Sherrill Collection, Leather Craft, Ekornes (Swedish). And then there is the very high end European manufacturers - Roche Bobois, B & B Italia, Cassina, Gamma, de Sede.
Beware of claims like "it's Italian leather." It means nothing. Natuzzi, an Italian manufacturer of leather furniture has three plants Italy, Brazil and China. Just because it has an Italian name doesn't mean its made in Italy.
Ask penetrating questions. If you aren't comfortable with an answer, run.
Some manufacturers like Nicoletti had an impeccable reputation 10 years ago. Their products today simply don't measure up. So don't rely on historical performance alone. The industry is being decimated by cheap foreign imports. To combat the onslaught some companies have capitulated and moved their plants to cheap labor countries and are now producing junk.
The unfortunate fact is there's a ton of misinformation on the web, and in the leather furniture retail channel. The probability is pretty high that you'll know more about leather now than the sales person who is selling the furniture. For more detail, visit our web-site. www.advleather.com. Go to the leather care section. If your sure its leather, the next question is what type of leather will perform best in your environment? From our web-site look at the features of the different leather types and make a determination of what will work for you. Then, pepper the sales person with questions.
Happy shopping!
copyright 2009 Kevin Gillan
