Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Leather Restoration Extended to Conservation and Preservation

We are often called upon to save existing leather, despite the reality that the leather is technically at the end of its useful life.  The typical life cycle of quality leather runs about 30 years.  However, we’ll be asked to restore leather that is 50 to 100 years old or even older where the leather is severely desiccated, with deep epidermal damage.  These projects move beyond typical restoration and into the realm of conservation and preservation. They are the assignments where the true skills of our craftsmen come into play.  

Sometimes we have to invent processes to accomplish the client’s goal.  Saving the leather interior built into a 1953 Jaguar XK-120 is an excellent example. By any reasonable measure the leather was beyond restoration yet the client wanted to retain the original leather for valuation purposes.

Because this was a unique project, we documented the process via video.  We also knew it would be a long term project and the client lived 1,500 miles away, so video documentation was a method we used to keep the client informed of our progress.  You can access the full video from your web-site directly by clicking on the link at the bottom of this post.

The following is a copy of a letter the client sent to Auto Restorer magazine, a periodical dedicated to the classic car crowd.

Dear Auto Restorer,

I’ve been a subscriber for several years and would like to alert your readers to what I believe is a relatively unique service that will be of interest to anyone wanting to preserve an original car versus restoration.  I’m the fortunate steward of an unrestored 1953 Jaguar XK-120.  My 58,000 mile car’s original paint still looks nice, albeit with a few blemishes here and there, and mechanically is trustworthy as well.  The leather seats however were deteriorating to the point that in order to save them at all, I pulled them out and for the last couple years substituted a pair of reproductions of period competition seats.  For several years I looked for someone who could repair and preserve the original leather versus going the route of an upholstery kit.  These were beyond a minor Dr. Vinyl type repair as there was serious scuffing in places and several cracks that had grown into full splits.

I periodically searched services every year or so and last fall found Advanced Leather Solutions in the San Francisco Bay area of California.  My seats were in their shop a few months as the process for removing oils to get the leather where they can bond repair panels under the surface requires many applications over time.  Along the way, they sent video updates so I could see everything that took place.  Anyone seeing the before and after would be amazed.  The scuffing, open cracks and splits are gone yet they maintained the patina that only time can bring.  As you’re probably aware, preservation instead of restoration is a growing trend in our hobby and in my opinion this company is a great resource for anyone who wants to repair and preserve original leather.  For those interested, a video of the processes performed on my seats can be downloaded from their web site at www.advancedleathersolutions.com.


Mike Buchanan
Cape Girardeau, MO

It is projects like this that sets Advanced Leather Solutions apart from the ordinary leather repair and restoration company.  While our bread and butter work is the mundane repairs and restoration, our true skills are tested with the out-of-the-ordinary projects.  They create the opportunity to extend the boundaries of our technical and artistic abilities. 

We are seeing more and more of this from our clients who want to preserve and conserve old leather --- to keep that “look” yet resolve the problems life presents.  For example, a current project involves water damage suffered on century old dining chairs where the leather on the seat tops is structurally disintegrating.  Our goal is to artistically conceal the water damage without causing further deterioration to the leather.  This is truly a challenge.

If you want to learn more about the conservation and preservation aspects of leather restoration, feel free to contact us.      

This is the link to the video of the Jaguar XK-120 project:

Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Insights Into Bicast

For years I've taken phone calls and e-mails from distraught consumers who made the mistake of purchasing bi-cast (bicast) material when they thought it was real leather.  It is sold as leather but it is clearly NOT the real deal.  Just as fiberboard isn't real wood, bicast isn't real leather.

As a general rule, leather that has suffered damage can be successfully repaired.  In the case of bicast this is problematic as any repair can only be as strong as the surrounding material.  With bicast, the material is inherently weak.  As such, a repair to bicast will, in all likelihood, fail.

At the end of this blog entry you'll find a link to photos that have been sent to me by consumers depicting their  classic problems with bicast material.  They show the wide variety of ways bicast fails.  In the world of furniture there has never been a more true application of the phrase "buyer beware."  Bicast is a problem waiting to happen.

Here is the text of an excellent article written by Barbara Carney, a leather restoration expert in the Chicago area.

  Bi-cast and Bonded Leather is NOT Leather! So, What Is It?
"Bi-cast and bonded "leather" can be the right choice for you – Here’s the complete story so you can make an informed decision.

"The term “leather” is used to describe 2 completely different types of material used on furniture:

1.      Real = An intact animal hide processed to look and feel good. Very strong.
2.      Bi-cast / bonded = Plastic with a little leather and maybe some fabric glued to the back. Not so strong.

"Note: Imitation leather = Plastic with fabric glued to the back. Not so strong.

"What’s going on? Leather’s very desirable because it:
· Looks good - many different possible textures, colors and finishes
· Strong, durable – can last decades; can be repaired and recolored
· Feels good to touch – soft and flexible
· Breathes, so you don’t get clammy or too hot
· Shows you have taste and could afford the nicer things

"Real leather soils easily, so a protective paint-like colored coating is added to approx 85% of the real leather furniture sold in the U.S. It’s a thin, breathable plastic that stays flexible and still has an appealing leather feel and light smell. Consumers easily confuse this with the thicker, non-breathable plastic layer of the lower cost bi-cast and bonded leathers. By adding a little leather – about 17% - which you don’t see or touch, it’s legal in the U. S. to sell bi-cast and bonded products as leather – which most people will think means real leather. In Europe and New Zealand it’s illegal to call such products leather.

"Bi-cast is a clever product. Typically, it’s a thick layer of plastic made to look and feel like leather, laminated on top of a thin, weak layer of leather. This layer is a “split” - horizontally split from the bottom of the original hide in a big sheet. In bi-cast, you don’t see it or feel it. It adds none of the characteristics of real leather, except one: If you check the inside surface, it looks and smells like leather. Why bother? A savvy consumer may know how to check for real leather by looking at the inside for the characteristic rough suede and the smell, or a trained salesperson may show it to the consumer – “See – it’s leather!”

"Bonded leather goes one step farther: Powdered leather fibers are mixed with a resin and extruded in a sheet, like paper or particleboard. There’s no physical characteristic left of the original leather. It’s a recycling method for using scraps. Just like the asphalt on your street might contain recycled plastic bottles. The layer containing the leather is on the back, just like bi-cast.

"As Furniture Today magazine says: ...calling these products bonded leather "is deceptive because it does not represent its true nature. It's a vinyl, or a polyurethane laminate or a composite, but it's not leather. If you tar and feather someone, does that make them a chicken?" Obviously not. 

"Sometimes it's even scented like leather.  In the end, it's plastic  - it's clammy, it's much less durable, it can't be repaired - unless you consider duct tape and a slip cover a repair. Some split or delaminate and peel after a few months or just a year or 2.  Some are more durable, but it's very hard to know when you buy it. You’d need the
test data on the number of  “rubs” to be sure."

Thank you Barbara for this excellent piece.  I hope it will help alert the unsuspecting consumer to make wise choices when selecting their leather furniture.

Click on this link to see pictures representing a sampling of the problems bicast presents.

Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan

Sunday, September 19, 2010

Dyes vs. Pigments Re-visited

There is a common misuse of the word “dye” in the leather repair and restoration business.  While I’ve discussed this before here, it’s time to address the issue again. 

There are two methods for coloring leather.  1. Dyes.  2. Dyes and then pigment coated.  It is very rare that leather would be pigment coated without having been dyed first.

Starting with the basics – Animal skins are tanned.  This process converts the skin to leather.  The main purpose of tanning is to preserve the hide.  It stops the natural degeneration or rotting process.  At the end of the tanning procedure and before the color step, the hide is called a “crust.”

The crust is highly absorbent. Think of a chemise. The crust is infused with a dye which we all know to be a coloring element.  The actual dye molecule is very small.  It penetrates into the fiber structure of the crust (leather) and establishes the color.  Typically it penetrates completely through the leather (struck through) so looking at a cross cut, you see the same color from front to back.  The dye is not molecularly bound to fiber structure, rather it as floating within the fiber bundles.  Because it is free floating, one of its attributes is migration.  It will transfer or move. 

Water will accelerate migration.  Consider blue jeans.  They fade when washed.  The dye molecule migrates out of the medium (in this case denim) and is flushed down the drain.  I have had occasion to witness this phenomena with leather many times.  A damp white cotton cloth wiped across dyed leather will pull the color.

Dyes have a unique beauty.  Because of their small molecular construct, dyes are translucent.  You look into the leather to see its color.  It accentuates the natural beauty of the leather. Because the porosity of leather is inconsistent, some areas of the hide will accept more dye than others.  This creates the natural mottling affect you see with dyed leather.  Its beauty can’t be beat.  We classify this leather as being “unfinished.”

There is a dark side.  The dye molecule does not tolerate UV light very well.  That wave length or spectrum of light hits the dye molecule and breaks it up.  This process gradually leaches the dye from leather causing the leather to lose its color (fade).  Furthermore, dyed leather continues to have a high level of porosity.  Spill a liquid and it will soak into the leather, potentially staining the leather.  In reality the stained area has been re-colored.  So trying to clean it is like trying to clean a tattoo from your skin.

Bottom line: dyed or unfinished leather is beautiful when new, but it is aesthetically vulnerable to staining and fading.  Only about 15% of all leather furniture is unfinished.  It is typically the most expensive leather as only the finest hides (least flawed with unsightly hide characteristics) can qualify to be unfinished.

Most leather then goes through a secondary coloring process with the application of a pigmented coating.  The pigment molecule sits on the leather’s surface.  As a coloring element the pigment molecule is a big, robust molecule with excellent covering power, like snow on the ground.  The pigment molecule is carried in a binding chemistry that locks it in place.  That binder chemistry is uniquely engineered for leather.  It establishes a film on the leather surface that is opaque.  The color you see is from a topical colorant that is a pigment.  This is known as “finished” leather.  

Pigments lack translucency so the color is flatter than dyes.  But pigments are far less sensitive to UV so they don’t fade nearly as radically.  Consider and automobile leather car seat. They don’t fade despite tons of sun exposure.  They are colored with a pigment.  Additionally, the film of color on the leather will resist absorption. If something spills, you can wipe it off the leather as it won’t immediately soak in.

You can not successfully re-dye leather using dye as the coloring element for a whole bunch of technical reasons, not the least of which is that you will be wearing the color on your clothing if you sit on the furniture.  Setting the dye so that it doesn’t transfer easily can only be done at a tannery under very specific and controlled processes.   

Leather can be re-colored, but only with a pigment application.  If it was dyed (unfinished) leather in the first place, the re-coloring process is with a pigment that provides full covering power, thus converting the leather to a “finished” or pigment coated status.

Of course we do this color restoration process professionally all the time, and it is the essence of the Do-It-Yourself kits offered by Advanced Leather Solutions.  Taking it one step further, because it’s an opaque chemistry, the color coating can be changed to whatever color desired.

The next time a leather technician says he/she can re-dye your leather, be weary as that person does not understand the fundamental difference between a dye and a pigment.

Copyright  2010, Kevin Gillan

Friday, September 17, 2010

What Is Best for Leather Color Application – Rub or Spray

When doing a full color restoration to leather furniture, automobile leather or garments there are two application options with Advanced Leather Solutions color system – rub and spray.  But, which is best?

There are clear pluses and minuses to both.

Spray System with High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) Air Equipment:

  •       Even color application
  •       More efficient use of material – less waste
  •       No potential for streaking
  •       More “factory like” result
  •       Less labor intensive
  •       More variety of mottling techniques if required


  •       Over spray considerations
  •       Must tape-off all not leather components
  •       Must have expensive equipment (Compressor and Air Gun)     
  •       Not practical for in-home application due to over spray 
  •       Requires top-coat as sealer coat

Rub System with Wipe-on Color Applicators


  •       Simple 
  •       Easy to master the application technique 
  •    Does not require experience
  •       Single pass - does not require a top-coat
  •       On-site application does not require taping-off


  •       More material consumed 
  •       Takes longer – more strenuous 
  •       Potential for streaking 
  •       Not as fine a finish as spray

In the end, both systems produce excellent results.   The choice of one over the other is often dictated by the nature of the assignment and availability of application tools.

 For a consumer, the rub system is better suited as it’s so simple to master and doesn’t require specialized application equipment.  For the professional leather technician the rub system offers the ability to work on-site with no threat of over-spray issues.

In a professional shop environment the choice is generally to spray as it more efficient use of labor time and materials and will produce a finer, more factory like result.

In our shop we use a hybrid approach.  In either case leather has to be properly primed for quality adhesion.  Then, we spray a section of leather with one hand and wipe it while wet with the other.  This mechanical wiping motion promotes better adhesion as it drives the color down into the grain pattern.   We then spray each subsequent coat to create a smooth, even color distribution, followed by topcoat application applied via spray.  Here is a video link to YouTube that shows a color change in our Hayward, CA leather restoration studio.

Both approaches have their place.  Our rub system has worked wonders with consumers, empowering them with the ability to restore their own furniture using the Advanced Leather Solutions’ Do-It-Yourself kit concept - a rub based solution. Check it out at this web-site:

Our professional leather technician clients have generally standardized on the spray approach.  However, some use both depending the circumstances.  For example, Leather Doctor in the Columbus, Ohio area uses both --- the rub approach when doing in-home restoration and the spray option in his shop facility.

To learn more about the art and science of leather restoration contact us at Advanced Leather Solutions or go to our web-site http://www.advleather.com.

Copyright 2010, Kevin Gillan

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Advanced Leather Solutions Training Programs

Over the past few months I've received numerous requests for information on our training options.  This gives the full details.

Advanced Leather Solutions Training -

To become an effective leather technician requires knowledge and the right products.  The market offer choices:

  1. Buy a Franchise for a bucket full of money.
  2. Attend a one day “Training Program” in a class room with a few dozen other people and see a sales pitch.
  3. Join our program where we teach the basics first so you are armed with the ability to think through each leather repair and restoration project your client presents.  Our program is not just theory or a sales pitch.  It’s founded on the real world experiences of over 23 years and tens of thousands of repair and restoration projects under our belt. 

Our training program offers multiple options tailored to the needs of the individual.   

This is NOT a franchise offering yet has all of the essential ingredients of a business opportunity.  Our program has: 

*       No Franchise Fee

*       No Territorial Limits

*       No Royalty Fee

*       No Contracts

*       No Monthly Technical Support Fee

*       No requirement to purchase products from us

*       No non-compete agreements

Our program is not a sales presentation with demonstrations at the front of the room.

Our program is not a “one-size-fits-all” approach.

Ours is an in depth immersion where you learn the “how” but more importantly the “why” as well.  The goal is to teach the underlying fundamentals so you can think for yourself, not simply do by rote.

There are training 3 options: Full hands-on, Distance learning, Custom

Hands-On Training

We offer a complete hands-on training program and an optional full Leather Repair and Restoration business starter kit. 

The class is scheduled on as needed basis at either our
Hayward, CA (San Francisco Bay Area) facility or in our Redding, CA (Northern CA) production factory.

The following is a general overview and some additional information that includes:

1. The course objective
2. A sample lesson from the Training Guide
3. A detailed course synopsis, including fee structure, and accommodations for our out-of-town guests.
4. Course outline


Objective Statement ---

This course is intended for people who repair leather.  The candidates include independent leather service technicians, automobile detailers, leather furniture manufactures, leather supply houses, transit companies, warranty companies and retailers to name a few.  At the conclusion of this course, the attendee will have a basic grasp of how to access a problem, develop a strategy for repair and execute the appropriate steps to create the most effective solution possible.

Course Includes ---

1.  3 1/2 days of hands-on training with each attendee working from his/her personal kit.  The lead trainer has been repairing leather furniture for over 23 years, having successfully repaired thousands of damaged leather furniture pieces. The course takes that deep practical experience and brings it to each attendee.

2.  180 page Leather Technician Field Guide that covers the course material. It is written in an organized, easy-to-read fashion. The attendee can focus on the hands-on activities without the need to take notes as the specific techniques are all well documented in the training guide.

3. Access to our DVD library of “How-To” instructions with a three year subscription and access to our technical library of on-line video instructions.

4. Toll-free telephone support for three full years.  Our technical support team is ready to answer any questions and assist in any way possible in solving the problems faced by the attendee when back on the job.

5. Addition to our Web-site with a link to you in your market as a lead referral source.

6. Certification by Advanced Leather Solutions as a trained professional leather technician.

7. An attendee can bring to the class specific leather problems they may have encountered and see how our technicians solve them.

Course Fee:  $3,000.  If another attendee from the same entity (like a business partner of husband and wife team), the second person can attend at ½ price ($1,500).


  1. A fully outfitted professional level mobile kit with electrical wiring built in to support the included compressor, top-of-the-line airbrushing equipment, professional quality heat gun, etc. Additionally the kit contains all the other necessary tools and chemistry for repairing damaged leather.  This is the same kit our service technicians use.  It has evolved over the last 23 years of field repairs by our technicians to be as reliable, efficient and complete a repair kit as possible.  If purchased at the time of training, the kit fee is $1500.  If purchased at any other time the kit fee is $1750.  We can ship anywhere in North America via UPS.  You will be responsible for shipping cost.
  2. Business Development Plan for starting a leather repair business which identifies markets, recommends pricing and offers samples for marketing materials. Customer relations issues are discussed so the repair technician is guided with effective answers to the difficult questions the consumer may be asking.  Three year on going marketing support going forward is included.  Fee is $1,000.

Course Synopsis

This course is intended for those who desire a fundamental understanding of the leather repair process. The goal is to impart sufficient knowledge for an individual to accomplish simple repairs to damaged leather.  This includes a basic grasp of key principles and concepts including:

1.       The nature and types of leather
2.       How to assess the damage and develop a repair strategy
3.       The repair processes for typical damage to leather
4.       The compounds and chemistry necessary to affect a repair
5.       leather finish color matching
6.       Finish application techniques to conceal and disguise the repair

It is important to note that this training program is based on the real-world experiences of our field technicians who garnered this knowledge through 23 years of leather repair and restoration.  Its focus is solutions to common problems encountered on leather furniture. It is not an academic exercise.  Nor a sales pitch for a franchise.  Rather, it’s a practical, solutions-oriented program dedicated to sharing the hard-fought knowledge, tricks and short-cuts that only experience teaches. 

When completed, each participant will be able to create strong, invisible and long lasting repairs to damaged leather. However, we believe that the practical training process is on-going and will continue well after the formal training is concluded.  The true test of your skills will come when you are in the field faced with real-world challenges under the harsh lights and discerning eye of a client.  In that regard, we commit to have our technicians available to answer questions and help guide you through difficult repairs as you encounter them.  Thus the training continues after the formal training ends, boosting your confidence and improving your effectiveness.

Each participant that successfully completes the formal training program, followed with three months of direct field experience, will be certified as a competent leather repair technician, and will be added to our qualified professional resource base.  This list will be posted to our web-site so those in need in your area can find you easily and have confidence that you are appropriately trained, using state-of-the-art materials, and backed by a leader in the industry. 

Course materials

Each attendee receives a fully out-fitted, professional leather repair kit with all the tools and materials necessary to solve leather related problems in the field.  Additionally all attendees receive a Leather Technician Field Guide entitled the Basics of Leather Repair.  The guide is complete with all the pertinent concepts and procedures defined and outlined, with ample room for notes. Its structure follows the course outline.  This document will be your “Bible” of leather repair.  It’s to be used as your field reference guide.

The Training Process

This 3 ½ day program consists of two primary methodologies:
1.       Instructor-led concept workshops
2.       Hands-on direct application of concepts and procedures

Each day consists both instructor-led and hands-on training.  We believe in as much one-on-one training as is practical, therefore each session will have limited attendance. 


All hands-on training will be conducted at our shop facility in Hayward, CA or in our production facility in Redding, CA.  Hayward this is the heart of the beautiful San Francisco bay area, a highly desirable travel destination for people from all over the world.  Stay an extra few days and enjoy the bay area.  Redding is the gateway to California’s fabulous Mt. Shasta region with the northern Sierra nearby.


From outside the bay area, Oakland International Airport is the closest air travel access.  Oakland airport is a hub for Southwest airlines.  The airport is 15 minutes from the training site.  Additionally, San Francisco International Airport is only 30 minutes away and San Jose International Airport is a 40 minute trip.  For those traveling via car, or are local to the bay area, the Marriot Inn and Suites Hotel and our shop facility are at the junction of Route 92 (San Mateo Bridge) and Industrial Blvd.


The Marriot Inn and Suites Hotel in Hayward is a three diamond award-winning facility.  It’s an affordable new hotel with comfortable amenities.  A full, buffet-style breakfast is included in your room rate. Please be sure to mention that you are booking for the training program for best possible rates.

Here is the outline of the course:


1.       Leather Fundamentals and Terminology
a.       Tanning Process
b.       Finishing Process
                                                   i.      Examples
                                                 ii.      Application
c.       Dye – Pigment
                                                   i.      Differences
                                                 ii.      Examples
d.       Basic Care Issues
                                                   i.      pH issues
                                                 ii.      Cleaning
                                                iii.      Conditioning

2.       Leather Repair Tools
a.       Kit Review
                                                   i.      Chemicals
                                                 ii.      Finishes
                                                iii.      Tools
b.       Safety considerations
                                                   i.      Electrical
                                                 ii.      Drops and rags
c.       Maintenance considerations
d.       Kit management

3.       Assessing Damage Strategies
a.       Type of leather
b.       What is damage vs. natural characteristic
                                                   i.      If natural, should it be “repaired”
c.       Nature of damage
                                                   i.      Cuts and tears
                                                 ii.      Rubs, scuffs and abrasions
                                                iii.      Stains
1.       food
2.       oil
3.       urine
4.       slobber or saliva -  animal, child
                                                iv.      Burns
                                                  v.      Scratches
                                                vi.      Ink
                                               vii.      Animal chews
                                             viii.      Cat claws
                                               ix.      Body oil
                                                 x.      Holes
                                               xi.      Odor
d.       Location of damage
e.       Environment
                                                   i.      Lighting
                                                 ii.      Attitudes and expectations
f.         Set-up procedures
g.       Spill and overspray controls
h.        What is repairable – what isn’t
                                                   i.      Knowing when to walk away
i.         What is an acceptable repair
                                                   i.      Strive for perfection – be willing to accept less
                                                 ii.      Remember – you didn’t cause the damage
                                                iii.      Goal is to improve the visual
                                                iv.      5 foot rule
                                                  v.      Independent observer rule
                                                vi.      Full disclosure before you begin
j.         Demonstration of a repair
                                                   i.      Remember – less is best.

4.       The Preparation Process
a.       Checking nature and condition of finish on leather, if any
                                                   i.      Delicate leather considerations
                                                 ii.      Adhesion testing
                                                iii.      pH damage
                                                iv.      Body oils
                                                  v.      Fading
                                                vi.      Finish oxidation
                                               vii.      Dye transfer and related conditions
b.       Chemicals for Cleaning and Priming – Role for Each
                                                   i.      Water
                                                 ii.      Alcohol
1.       Denatured
2.       Isopropyl
                                                iii.      Methanol
                                                iv.      Degreaser
                                                  v.      Acetone
                                                vi.      OMS
                                               vii.      Leather Cleaner
                                             viii.      Spot Remover
                                               ix.      Ink Remover
                                                 x.      Conditioner
                                               xi.      PUP and Derivatives
                                              xii.      Replenishing oils
c.       Sanding

5.       Sub-patching
a.       When is it necessary
b.       Why
c.       What
d.       How
e.       Adhesives
f.         Technique

6.       Fillers
a.       How they work
b.       When to use what
c.       How to fill
d.       Curing
                                                   i.      Bulb
                                                 ii.      Other heat source
e.       Problems and pit-falls

7.       About Exotics
a.       Calf skin
b.       Pure aniline
c.       Brushed (Nubuck)
d.       Suede
e.       Pig skin
f.         Deer
g.       Ostrich
h.       Others

8.       Leather Finishes
a.       Basic chemical composition
                                                   i.      Water base
b.       Color
c.       Top-coat
d.       Effect of feel (hand)

9.       Color Theory
a.       Chroma
b.       Hue
c.       Value
d.       Color wheel
e.       ROY G BIV

10.   Color Matching

11.   Application Methods and techniques
a.       Air brush
b.       Sprayers
c.       Rub technique
d.       Brush
e.       Curing considerations

12.   Introduction to Mottled Colors
a.       Basics of base and print
b.       Tipped leathers
c.       Interaction of two or more colors
d.       Methods
                                                   i.      Stencils
                                                 ii.      Sponging
                                                iii.      Splatter
                                                iv.      Dusting

13.   Grain matching
a.       Spray grain
b.       Graining tools
c.       Application techniques

14.   Top Coats
a.       Importance of sheen
b.       Protection characteristics
c.       Feel modifiers
d.       Coverage
e.       Curing

15.   Concluding the repair
a.       Clean-up strategies

Distance Learning:

This is a highly affordable entry level program.  It doesn’t require travel.  It's considerably less in-depth than the full hands-on program.  This will get you started.  The program is particularly effective for those already in the furniture repair business but lack the essential knowledge about leather.  It opens up additional revenue opportunities to address the enormous need of leather repair.

This program includes…

1. A starter kit of colors, primers, repair compounds top coats, etc.
2. An air brush (Badger 250-3)
3. The Technician's Field Guide
4. 5 DVD's on aspects of leather repair
5. 3 hour introductory consultation via web cam or telephone
6. Sample leather pieces for practice.

Fee is $795. plus shipping of materials via UPS

This program is a low cost entry to get your feet a bit wet in this industry.  If you are serious about the business then it is much better to go with the hands-on program. Otherwise it’s like trying to teach yourself how to play piano with a book and 3 hours of over the phone conversation with a piano teacher.


You define for us what you want to learn and we’ll create a training structure to accommodate your needs.  If you are a franchisor or perhaps a major corporation with many locations throughout the world and want to pick up a fully mature training program that is tailored to your specific needs, we’re happy to offer a solution, including an in depth “Train-the-Trainer” program.

Copyright  2010, Kevin Gillan